When I am planning out my sewing project or shopping for fabric. Grain line is probably the last thing on my mind. Therefore, if I want my garment to look and feel professionally made, I feel it’s important to learn about the grainline of the fabric and how to straighten the fabric grain line before cutting out the garment pieces
Grainlines are essentially the weave of a fabric and are an unnoticed aspect of your garment.
It is important to understand grainlines in sewing and garment construction. This allows you to cut out your pattern pieces in the correct direction on a piece of fabric, allowing the fabric to conform to the shape and drape of the garment.
Definition of Warp and Weft:
To help you first understand how grainlines are formed. I will discuss the definition of two words you may or may not have heard of WARP and WEFT.
Warp and Weft are two terms used to describe the weaving of threads into yarn or fabric.
When the fabric is woven, the WARP threads are stretched over the loom in the lengthwise direction. These threads must be strong. They are held under high tension during the weaving process. This can also be called lengthwise grain or straight of fabric. While the WEFT threads are woven over and under the WARP threads.
Furthermore, when you buy fabric on the bolt, you will notice a tightly woven border, This is called a selvage. Selvage is an edge produced on woven fabric during manufacture that prevents it from unraveling. Garments are usually cut on the lengthwise grain for durability.
How to Straighten Fabric Grain Line:
Now that I’ve introduced you to terms that describe how fabric is made. Let us get into the meat and potatoes and actually show you how to straighten your fabric grain line before you preshrink the fabric. Therefore, to be ready for cutting out your fabric pieces. Check out this video!
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Bias:
Another way to determine the grain of fabric is based on a term called bias. Bias refers to the intersecting of lengthwise and crosswise grains. Where the bias grain is at a 45-degree angle between the two. The benefit of this is the stretchability. While cutting my pattern piece straight on the grain, I lose the ability for the fabric to stretch, which is one of the benefits of cutting my pattern piece on the bias.
Here is a video to help explain this further:
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How to straighten fabric grain line of scrap fabric:
Learning how to straighten the fabric grain line for scrap fabrics is a skill to gain. I find as your sewing and fashion journey continues, you will gather scraps of fabric. I love to learn how to utilize these scraps for different projects, this is eco-friendly and helps me expand my creativity to create new things. Here is a video regarding determining the grainline of fabric for scrap pieces.
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I hope that this blog post has given you the knowledge to make sure your grain line in your fabric is straight before cutting into it. To also help you along. I’ve also included a link that explains woven fabrics and gives you a list of which fabrics are woven.
